The Paneer Conspiracy: the paradigm of local fast food, Oct 2004

Another project for that optional journalism paper. This was a survey article, and thus the spade work is more authentic than what I did for the interview with Murari.

Mea culpa, mea culpa...

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8:30 on a Wednesday night is rush hour at 312 Velluvar Kottam High Road –“Opp Good Shepherd Convent, Nungambakkam, Chennai”, as the address tag reads on the brochure. With glazed eyes gazing at tantalizing descriptions of pizza toppings, hungry groups of Nokia-enhanced teenagers and cricket-minded families of six force the waiters at Pizza Hut to whirl around with pans of steaming pizza, faster and faster around the noisy tables. The waiters themselves pause rarely, their adrenaline-pumped work continuing till 11 every night.

Pizza is definitely the most favoured of MNC introduced fast-food in this city, a place that has seen most other types of Western Fast food strangled at birth. Wimpey’s, the ill-fated burger joint was one of them, and it is seen that the various friend chicken franchises recently opened in the city may soon go the same way: empty tables and lounging men togged out in yellow and orange, greet passers-by who then hurry onto an eatery that is more populated, and better colour-coordinated.

While we are on the topic, why this aversion to fast food restaurants that serve only chicken? In conversation with the Marketing Head of Prime Roaster, I learnt that the meals were targeted at the “younger section of society”: the school children, the college kids and the full-sleeved workaholics. Taking this information, I went to ask this same “younger section” why the tables at Prime Roaster remain empty, in spite of a now infamously layered ad campaign, in which smug references to breasts and legs and thighs made mamis and accountants alike flee, yelling about “abishto” and the evils of advertising. The answer I got was overwhelming in its uniformity, and in its lucidity-

“No Taste!” cried Archana Baliga, a third year student of Literature at Stella Maris College. “No taste” nonchalantly yawned Kalpana Komal, a copywriter with JWT. “Yuck!” said Pratap, a vibrant young man, nine years of age who studies at Lady Andal School. Indubitably, us Chennaiites will entertain western fast food only if there’s a spin on the spice factor in favour of our taste buds.

So why does Pizza gain the smiles and the credit cards?

I visited their outlets to find out. Warm-coloured walls, painted with pop art images of the aforementioned waiters and their dancing trays, and of course the omnipresent pizza, greet me. The latest pop and rock tunes spill out from speakers, and everywhere there is the sound of conversation, clinking cutlery and the aroma of baking “deep pans” and “Italian crusts”- Just one of the few choices to make while eating at Pizza Hut, as responsible and free citizens of this Great Democracy. I stand, gazing reverently at menu cards that describe toppings, which make me wonder why I ate the staid curd rice and pickle at home. It is in that menu card that I find my answer. For here are descriptions that sound strangely familiar: “Paneer Do Pyaza” and “Tikka delight” are listed under the vegetarian and non-vegetarian menus respectively. Here, mozzarella cheese and Indian Tandoor come together in an East-meets-West dynamic that only a genius could’ve foreseen. Bhangra meets Britney Spears, and judging from the always-full outlet in Nungambakkam, Pizza Hut seems to have struck the right chord.

But hang on- so much for the Club Mahindra families, and young people celebrating everything from Valentine’s Day to birthday parties to graduations to promotions. What does the average Chennaiite think of Pizza, or for that matter, of our imported fast food chains?

Back on Nungambakkam high road two hours later, I cannot fight the growl from the depths of my being that declares the need for a quick bite. Looking up, I find myself on a jostling sidewalk, on which stands Apoorvas Sangeetha restaurant- “a/c, vegetarian”. Busboys run, and do not dance- wiping tables, bringing water, bills, more sambhar and napkins. People stream in and out continuously, swallowing masala dosas and vadais as fast as the kitchen churns them out. The air is filled with smells that remind one of paati’s kitchen, accompanied by distinctly “outside” smells of various deodorants, air-conditioning and chewed beetle nut. This is truly fast food: Within half an hour, you are dosaed, chutneyed, watered, napkined, toothpicked and billed. Satisfied murmurs tide me gently to the exit, and I join in the chorus. Light on the stomach, light on the wallet, easy on time.

Is there really a fusion of East and West then? Are we as a city willing to pay MNC rates [pizzas in Pizza Hut are bought for Rs. 525/-] for cheesy Tandoor? Who really does consume fast food on a regular basis?

More soul searching, more eatery-hopping.

The Red E, otherwise known as the Food Court was my next stop. Serving a variety of fast food from various cuisines, I decided to ask the friendly, plastic-gloved countermen who it was who ate the most frequently at this United Nations of Carbohydrates. The demographic hasn’t changed. I was told of batches of school and college children, young couples, and working men and women from nearby offices. Verified, thus- it’s still the “younger” crowd that goes in for fast food. Yet in Apoorvas Sangeetha’s, a famous chain of South Indian fast food, I saw happy eaters who ranged from 12 to 62, cell phone ownership no bar. True, there was no sign of the pop culture crowd; those were centred at Pizza Hut, and in the coffee places I passed on the way. It was then that Charles, one of the smiling faces at Red E, gave me a further insight into the matter. According to Charles, they saw more family crowds on Friday and Saturday nights.

I then visited Domino’s, another Pizza stalwart, and another outlet of Pizza hut. I wanted to ask about sales on weekends. And the hunch pulled off- The biggest sales by both fast food chains are made over the weekends in madras, whether through take-away or dining-in. Did this mean that Chennaiites still treated Western fast food outlets as speciality restaurants to be eaten at together with the whole family? This is popularly believed notion, especially among the “mature” sections of society. Prices in most western fast food joints are high, and thus these places cannot be eaten at frequently.

What of that younger demographic then? It was by now 7:30 in the evening, and passing by Ispahani Centre, I decided to drop in on Café Coffee Day. Overflowing with conversation and music videos, Coffee Day is the one place that is perpetually filled with java-guzzling and sandwich-munching college-goers or young entrepreneurs. I ask about Pizza and Dosa and am suddenly interrupted by a vociferous young man: Saikumar is a 2nd year student at Hindustan College of Engineering who loves being interviewed. Slurping on a cappuccino, he declares, “see, pizza and all is fine, but we eat here more often. Who has the money, machaan?”. A chorus of affirmations sounds in answer to that question. Thus I begin to slowly gather my threads of thought, while unravelling the Eater’s Psyche in this city.

According to Sai (short for Saikumar, as he cheerfully informed me), places like Pizza Hut was where you went when you were with friends, and it was an occasion, or with family. When it came to grabbing a quick bite or treating a possible girlfriend, it was Coffee Day, and other such snack points in the city, that serve this popular combo of coffee and filled bread. And it is no wonder: prices in Coffee Day range from Rs. 40- Rs.120. Pizzas come only in three figured amounts. I then ask about Apoorvas Sangeetha’s popularity among his contemporaries. I am greeted by grins, and am told by Ranjini, A third year student at M.O.P Vaishnav College that Sangeetha’s is always there, and everyone eats there- “But places like Coffee Day and Pizza Hut is where we hang out, yaar”.

It certainly seems that the marketing teams of these various eatery chains are cashing in on this fact. Every major (and minor) shopping complex in Madras has a fast-food joint, or two, or three. And it is always the same crowd, as that which is touted by the number crunchers of these eateries. And yet it is the Indian-based fast food outlets, like Sangeetha’s and Pathankot that receive the greatest traffic in clientele. I went to the new food court in Spencer’s, which is run under the still-popular banner of ‘Planet Yumm” to find out more. It is true- for every person eating at the Hot Breads or Pizza Hut counter, there were 3 people eating at Sangeetha’s.

Price is still a big issue. The average Chennaiite does not believe in spending big money on fast food. Among City College kids and still young yuppies, fast food chains spell lunch and early dinners shared with friends and the gossip of the day. But this is still a very small percentage. When asked about this, Retd. Col. Jaipal Isaacs [ a food connoisseur and a long-time citizen of Chennai] stated the case quite plainly- Why spend big money on fast food when you can spend the same money and eat at a nice quiet restaurant?

It is true that most restaurants have a price list that is more or less that of these imported fast food chains. Put it down to the conservativeness that Chennaiites are famed for, but it is seen that most do not see the tantalizing menu-card descriptions worth the prices. Sangeetha’s and Saravana Bhavan still seems to get everyone’s vote, for fast, clean and yes- healthy food. It is also seen, by majority and considering the total spending population, that sandwiches, burgers and pizzas cannot truly meet our gustatory requirements. Ergo the clever spin-offs on Paneer and Tandoori chicken. Paneer rolls, Paneer in pizzas, grilled Paneer sandwiches, and the same treatment meted out to the chicken.

It seems to work among the fast-food lovers, as is obvious from the symphony of chewing that surrounds me at Coffee Day, amidst the slurped coffee. As is obvious from the number of new fast-food eateries that have opened, based on the same concept of Indianized western snacks. ‘Java Green’, a Reliance venture, is one such eatery. ‘Aiwo’ is another.

And it is not only Tandoor that is being used: Pizza Hut is introducing Chettinad flavours this season to cater specially to the South Indian Market. This is an enhancement to their already existing range of ‘Pan Hindustani’, a range of flavours specially designed for the Indian Palate. Customers and pizza lovers at any of the 70 Pizza Hut restaurants across the country can now choose between a 'Veg Nilgiri', 'Deccan Chicken', 'Dakshin Paneer' and 'Southern Supreme' at Pizza Hut and enjoy the best pizzas under the roof in an atmosphere of fun and relaxed informality. Hm. One can only infer that even Tandoori pizza was too alien for our southern taste buds after a point.

And yet, in spite of luring us further with these amendments, there is still that milling crowd at Sangeetha’s that such corporate food chains cannot reach. A Veg Nilgiri will never have the pull of a masala dosa, and that is just plain fact.

I sighed, ending my Quest to uncover the Paneer Conspiracy. It exists, burgeoning, striking out at unsuspecting snackers, but wait- there is still hope. For if there is one thing that Chennaiites pride themselves on, it is their sense of tradition. We cannot forget driving in our thatha’s ambassador to Sangeetha’s for hot kaapi and vadais on the way to visit relatives on every alternate Sunday. We cannot forget stopping on the way back from school with our best friend, putting together hoarded pocket money in order to buy a Rs. 15 plain dosa with chutney. We cannot forget running in from the rain to take cover under the shop front of a Saravana Bhavan’s, and staying for a musambi juice. And in spite of the music videos, advertising, special offers and the “younger section”, when we feel a pang of everyday hunger, we turn to the ever-present vegetarian south-Indian fast-food restaurants that populate our city.

I drove past Coffee Day, seeing late evening stragglers just leaving through the glass door. Passing Sangeetha’s I turned involuntarily to look: there were people who could all be related to us, on the way back from work or tuition- eating, talking, living. Fast food with plenty of molagga podi and soul.

Here were no worries over globalisation, or health consciousness. In the true spirit of tolerance, Chennaiites balance out channa barota and club sandwiches. Whatever you choose then, based on price or spice, the philosophy seems to be- Just eat it.